Comparing Decking Materials:
Ipe, Teak, Cumaru, Garapa, Massaranduba, Treated, Cedar, Redwood, and Composites.
We know that there is a lot of information out there to digest when it comes to understanding which type of wood is best for your project. We wanted to provide a comparison of the specs and colors of the woods that we carry, so you can see it all in one place.
Below are the Janka Hardness, Bending Strength, and Average Density for all of our decking woods and their major competitors. It also includes a basic cost guide, and, of course, the cut of wood and length needed will affect pricing. This can help you compare each species and how each cut of wood is priced, including Ipe Decking, Garapa Decking, Massaranduba Decking, Teak Decking, and Cumaru Decking.
We are a direct importer of our foreign mills so we can provide you the most competitive pricing for all of your lumber needs. Contact us today for a quote or if you have any questions!
| Material | Janka Hardness (MLBF) | Bending Strength (MPSI) | Density (Lbs/CuFt) | Price $ to $$$$$ |
| Ipe | 3.7 | 25.4 | 69 | $$$$ |
| Massaranduba | 3.2 | 27.2 | 66 | $$$ |
| Teak | 1.2 | 13.7 | 40 | $$$$$ |
| Cumaru | 3.5 | 27 | 68 | $$$ |
| Garapa | 1.6 | 12.9 | 54 | $$ |
| Red Cedar | 0.6 | 6.8 | 30 | $$ |
| Treated Pine | 0.9 | 12.0 | 35 | $ |
| Redwood | 0.5 | 7.9 | 30 | $$$$ |
| Composites | 1.1 | 3.0 | 63 | $$$$ |
Ipe
Massaranduba
Teak
Garapa
Cumaru
Paul:
I am inquiring about decking material for a deck I am designing approximately 260 sq. ft. sitting about 14″ off of grade. I am debating between Cumaru, Ipe or Tigerwood but do not know the advantages or disadvantage of these. I know Ipe is the most expensive. But I am unclear on shrinkage or expansion. I am looking at 5/4 x 6″ material. Are these products kiln dried or air dried. What are the advantages or disadvantages of kiln dried over air dried. I have read that kiln dried has a tendency to expand more and therefore requires larger gaps? I have also heard that Ipe may become slippery in the rain and that Cumaru may need to be sanded to eliminate any slivers. But not sure if this is true or not. I would prefer to have the railing and posts be of the same material. Are 4×4 posts and 3×6 rails available in these hardwoods? I am also looking at a making two slat benches and two pilasters with 1 x siding our of the same decking material, if possible.
Since the deck is low to the ground should the joist framing and beam support be of the same material assuming that there are 4×4, 2×6 and 2×8 lumber stock available in these hardwoods? Or is pressure treated lumber acceptable. If pressure treated what is the best material, fir, cedar or something else? Does Est teak supply the pressure treated lumber as well or do I need to buy this locally from a Lumber yard.
thanks for your help and advice.
John,
I will answer as best I can.
I am debating between Cumaru, Ipe or Tigerwood but do not know the advantages or disadvantage of these. I know Ipe is the most expensive. But I am unclear on shrinkage or expansion. I am looking at 5/4 x 6″ material. Are these products kiln dried or air dried. What are the advantages or disadvantages of kiln dried over air dried. I have read that kiln dried has a tendency to expand more and therefore requires larger gaps?
– Tigerwood is not as available as it used to be. We no longer carry it.
– Ipe is usually Air Dried but can be special ordered Kiln Dried.
– Cumaru is Kiln Dried.
If the wood expands or contracts really depends on your location. I am going to assume you live in a average moisture content location for this discussion. The general rule of thumb is that Air Dried will expand and Kiln Dried will contract. So when you install Air dried you can place them closer together while kiln dried you want to install them farther apart.
Here is a good article explaining the difference between kiln dried and air dried:
http://thompsonmahogany.com/kd-vs-ad-ipe-decking-options/
Also you can look at Deckwise Ipe Clips as a guide for the usual spacing for the different drying types even if you don’t use them.
https://www.deckwise.com/ipe-clip-hidden-deck-fastener.html
I have also heard that Ipe may become slippery in the rain and that Cumaru may need to be sanded to eliminate any slivers. But not sure if this is true or not.
Ipe is just as slip resistant as other wood decking and sometime more so in the long run because it is resistant to mold and mildew. I think this person may have had a deck that was in need of cleaning.
Ipe and Cumaru require finishing sanding but this is not for slivers it is to remove scuffs and scratched from transportation and installation. Here is a good article about that:
http://www.eastteak.com/is-ipe-decking-a-finished-product/
I would prefer to have the railing and posts be of the same material. Are 4×4 posts and 3×6 rails available in these hardwoods?
Those sizes are available in Ipe but not in cumaru. So you may want to do cumaru decking and ipe railings or possibly metal railing.
Since the deck is low to the ground should the joist framing and beam support be of the same material assuming that there are 4×4, 2×6 and 2×8 lumber stock available in these hardwoods? Or is pressure treated lumber acceptable. If pressure treated what is the best material, fir, cedar or something else? Does Est teak supply the pressure treated lumber as well or do I need to buy this locally from a Lumber yard.
Joist framing and beam support should be pressure treated wood. Which ever is locally available and of a high quality. We do not supply pressure treated lumber that is supplied locally. In most situations the framing and beams are protected from most wear by the hardwood decking so they last an extremely long time as well. Decks should be built at least 24″ above the underlying surface and have open ventilation from three sides.
Here is a great general guide for any questions I was unable to answer:
http://www.eastteak.com/a-deck-builders-guide-to-ipe-garapa-and-other-hardwood-decking/
Hope that helps you get started on your planning and please let me know if you have any questions.
Thanks!
Paul
Paul:
Thank you very much for the reply. This is all very good information and I will check out your links. I live in the Northwest in Edmonds so moisture is obviously an issue. Of your responses only one may be an issue. I am building the deck set just below the French door sill, which unfortunately is only 14″ above grade. So I will not be able to maintain the 24″ clearance. As indicated in the previous post, I am looking at using 2×6 joists on two rows of 4×4 beams. The beams will be supported on concrete pier blocks with 4×4 post brackets. bottom of 4×4 beam will be about 4 1/2″ above a pea gravel bed on grade.
I am planning on sourcing the material from East teak in Sultan Washington. But I have not contacted them yet. Need to finish the design and do a material take off.
John,
Yeah the main thing with the 24″ height is if you are going to go lower you may want to space the boards more but mainly make sure that it will definitely drains really well and make sure their is air circulation on all 3 sides. The reason for that height recommendation is because if water pools under the deck you want more air under so it will have less effect on the wood.
Thanks
Paul